Hallmarks are used to determine the karat, ie the gold content of a jewel. This article presents the main titrations and karat in jewellery.
What is a karat ?
There are two definitions for the term carat:
- Gemological, therefore for a diamond or other gemstone, it is an unit of weight equivalent to 0.2g. Thus, the more carats a gemstone has, the higher its size is and thus its value increases.
- In jewelry, it is used to measure the metal purity in the jewellery. Thus, 99.99% pure gold is 24 karats of gold. The consequence is that the karat is 1 / 24th of the total mass of an alloy. Thus 18k gold means that there is 75 % gold (18/24 * 100 = 75%). A 14 karat gold jewellery contains 58.5% gold.
What is a hallmark ?
Among the hallmarks, we distinguish two types :
- Hallmarks status or legal title, denoting the purity of a jewel. Some examples below :
- French hallmarks enable also to define the titration of a jewel. Below the mains french hallmarks :
Seahorse | Pure gold 99,99% |
Eagle 1 | Gold 22 karats 91,6 % |
Eagle | Gold 18 karats 75 % |
Shell | Gold 14 karats 58,5 % |
Clover | Gold 9 karats 37,5 % |
Minerve | Silver 92,5 % |
Minerve 2 | Silver 80 % |
Dog | Platinum 85 % |
Dog 1 | Platinum 95 % |
Dog 2 | Platinum 90 % |
Dog 3 | Platinum 85 % |
Master Hallmarks, designating the manufacturer’s brand of jewelery, goldsmith or Master. It is often hit in a diamond.
The square punches generally means that the jewelry is gold plated or silver.One can find the marks “G”, “GALV”, “Murat”, “GOLD-PLATED” which are often signs plated jewelery brand, or plating by electroplating. This is called galvanic gilding.
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