Hallmarks are used to determine the karat, ie the gold content of a jewel. This article presents the main titrations and karat in jewellery.

 

What is a karat ?

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There are two definitions for the term carat:

• Gemological, therefore for a diamond or other gemstone, it is an unit of weight equivalent to 0.2g. Thus, the more carats a gemstone has, the higher its size is and thus its value increases.

• In jewelry, it is used to measure the metal purity in the jewellery. Thus, 99.99% pure gold is 24 karats of gold. The consequence is that the karat is 1 / 24th of the total mass of an alloy. Thus 18k gold means that there is 75 % gold (18/24 * 100 = 75%). A 14 karat gold jewellery contains 58.5% gold.

 

What is a hallmark ?

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Among the hallmarks, we distinguish two types :

• Hallmarks status or legal title, denoting the purity of a jewel. Some examples below :

• French hallmarks enable also to define the titration of a jewel. Below the mains french hallmarks :

Seahorse	Pure gold 99,99%
Eagle 1	Gold 22 karats 91,6 %
Eagle	Gold 18 karats 75 %
Shell	Gold 14 karats 58,5 %
Clover	Gold 9 karats 37,5 %
Minerve	Silver 92,5 %
Minerve 2	Silver 80 %
Dog	Platinum 85 %
Dog 1	Platinum 95 %
Dog 2	Platinum 90 %
Dog 3	Platinum 85 %

• Master Hallmarks, designating the manufacturer’s brand of jewelery, goldsmith or Master. It is often hit in a diamond.
  The square punches generally means that the jewelry is gold plated or silver.

  One can find the marks “G”, “GALV”, “Murat”, “GOLD-PLATED” which are often signs plated jewelery brand, or plating by electroplating. This is called galvanic gilding.
  

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